Fall/Winter 2013 Fashion Coverage
Alexander McQueen went royal for his Fall/Winter 2013 collection this season during Paris’ fashion week. It was as if you fused together the contents of Queen Elizabeth’s closet with the stained-glass panes and painted architecture of a catholic cathedral. Each detail was intricate and ornate, and the pearl-encrusted head cages were awe-inspiring. Bedecked in white lace, pleated crinoline skirts and confining corsets that cinched the waists of the already petite-models, each piece of the collection was more fascinating than the last. The palette was a regal mix of black, white and gold, and each piece embedded with pearls. The individual dresses each took an exhaustive two weeks to create. The McQueen house has always had a love for the gothic, and this fall they have presented something truly breathtaking, though hauntingly so.
Structured, architectural lines and marble were the star creations from the Balenciaga house this season. Debuting his first collection in Paris under the Balenciaga name, Alexander Wang kept true to the houses’ traditional style while putting a fresh spin of his own for fall. A breath of fresh air, the line presented many pieces that any woman would love to have in her fall wardrobe. The palette was a monochromatic blend of black, white and grey. We first saw a mink-sleeved cocoon coat paired with black trousers and black boot. An all-black origami dress shined in eveningwear, as did a white, knee-length, V-neck dress with the faux marble design. Aside from the marbled runway, it was the first appearance of the shows motif. The crown jewel of Wang’s new collection were the rounded faux-marble furs in black and white, paired with high-waisted velvet lace pants with a marble inspired cut out design, showing a peek of skin beneath. Accessories were minimal and were seen in black headbands and metal hardware attached to the clothes themselves. Overall, a sophisticated, wearable collection. Wang truly left a great first impression.
The girls of Carven strutted their sultry, animalistic side on the runway at Guillaume Henry’s fall 2013 show for Carven in Paris. “I didn’t want to make anything too sweet,” said Henry. “It’s about being strong and vulnerable at the same time.” A delicious palette of icy blue, pale pink and taupe played nicely on warm fall fabrics for coats and long dresses, and on zebra printed sheath dresses adding a sophistication not normally seen in animal-inspired collections. Models carried pastel and zebra printed satchels that complimented the ensembles. Most notable about the Carven creations are the in-house designed fabrics. Over ninety percent of the fabrics are made in-house and include mohair, latex-coated wool, leather and faux fur. Carven is staying a step ahead of the fashion game, one Mary Jane clad foot at a time.
In an effort to educate other designers about global branding, Chanel dramatically centered an enormous globe in the center of their show in Paris this past February. Models walked beside the lit globe, each light representing a store location, to present the new collection. An ingenious idea in itself, this line continues to show us why there are so many lights on that globe. Chanel gave us a grittier take on fall and winter fashion and showed us that it’s alright to be a little dark, moody and a little mysterious this time of year. Models wore fur helmets, reminiscent of Anna Wintour’s iconic bob as an ode to the fashion guru. While the fabrics were heavy, the coverage was on the lighter side. Using heavy tweeds and wools, the coats were paired with pleated mini-skirts and skin tight, thigh-high leather boots that were sporadically embellished with metal chains. A stand out in the collection were the sheer overcoats, it was an interesting choice of fabric for fall and winter wear. However, that is thinking outside the box in classic Chanel fashion.
Jean Paul Gaultier
The Jean Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter show at the Salle Wagram in Paris this season was in a word, iconic. Based on the past signature looks of Gaultiers’ favorite pop stars, “an homage to all the pop stars of the eighties who have influenced fashion and my fashion with their look,” he says, the line still possessed a futuristic air. We saw tributes to greats such as Madonna, Sade, Boy George, David Bowie and Grace Jones. You could see the Grace Jones style in the rigid jackets that showed minimal movement, but maximum style. The Bowie influence was apparent in the bronze and silver, metallic, futuristic leather suits. Another piece, possibly an ode to the era, was a loud silhouette print on a silk dress in black, orange and red. The best, and probably most surprising portion of the show, was the inspired pieces Gaultier derived from his own stint as an artist in the 80’s. Such pieces included skintight crocheted patchwork trousers, long sleeved shirts and high-collared black jackets.
The John Galliano Fall 2013 show in Paris evoked strength and power through the use of severe architectural design and a dark palette of indigo, navy, black and bursts of fiery red. Designer Bill Gaytten for Galliano explained, “I’m not a soft, romantic person, there are no simpering sex kittens, no women who depend on men for their sense of identity.” Point well taken Gaytten. The Galliano woman this season is a superwoman in her own right, almost intimidatingly so. In creations with silhouettes reminiscent of martial arts attire, we saw wide legged pants, large leather belts and sharp angled coats. Beautiful in design, and lending a pop of color to the collection, was the artistically draped navy blue gown with a splash of red, still powerful in design it had an air of feminity that proved Gaytten might have a soft spot after all.
The Miu Miu Fall 2013 collection presentation in Paris, France this season brought life and color to the City of Lights. Reminiscent of vintage comic book heroines, the use of pop art inspired dots and bright colors were fun and whimsical. Mixing patterns was a popular trend on her subway themed runway this season, as we saw polka dotted handkerchiefs paired with striped handbags, and striped tights paired with polka dotted coats, yet it all seemed to work. The palette was mixed as well, bright yellow mingled with navy and red on a long, belted dotted trench and a blush pink coat was paired with red and navy. Models hairstyles were worn with deep parts, and braids tied into tight buns, their makeup, dark and seductive. The silhouettes were bold, yet feminine in their own right, with the use of an embroidered jeweled ribbon cascading down the front of black, wool, large buttoned coat. Cartoony? Maybe. Fabulous? Always.
This season McQueen took us to visit a catholic cathedral; with Valentino we visit the convent. And a fashionable one at that. We were inspired by “calm and serene portraits of women,” Valentino designer Pier Paolo Piccoli exclaimed. “We wanted to catch the same spirit of private sensuality,” he explained, “something very spiritual and poetic—women as new Madonnas.” The execution of such was flawless. The show opened with a prim and proper, scalloped edge, Dutch floral dress with a white embroidered collar lending it school girl charm. Another sweet addition to the collection was the blush pink cashmere sheath dress with a lace skirt and a delicate matching collar. Models wore their hair in demure long braids, and makeup was natural. The palette was comprised of white, soft pinks, black and royal blue, as seen on a matronly long-sleeve gown. The piece de resistance of the collection was the long-sleeved, black, laser cut gown that featured embroidered black crystals, white lace. A piece that took over five hundred hours to create.
Bottega Veneta’s designer Tomas Maier romanticized wool in his latest collection for the Fall/Winter 2013 presentation in Milan. The opening of the show made us fall in love with classic black all over again. First through a satin belted black coat that featured sculptural ruffles and folds that were soft and feminine. Next through two gorgeous pieces, each equally engaging. A black peplum wool top and pencil skirt, and a little black dress, which Maeir incorporated pleated satin into. Necklines were lux and sat upon the models like delicate flowers. The collection also included ivory wool sheath dresses that were embroidered with abstract prints in bright colored silks. The palette was warm and featured saffron and bright red among the primarily midnight black dominate collection. One of the most mastered looks was a satin blouse, folded asymmetrically to perfection, paired with black cropped trousers. A pairing was romantic and defined the collection as elegant and refined.
Dolce & Gabbana
Dolce and Gabbana took us to church during their presentation of the houses’ Fall/Winter 2013 collection. A centuries old church that is. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, inspired by Monreale Cathedral in Sicily, incorporated their artful inspiration into mosaic prints. Crosses and portraits of crosses and saints were in bright colors such as rust, gold and blue. A long black coat was more subdued and made for the perfect fall staple for the D&G woman who is seeking quality and a certain level of sophistication when she layers for the chillier months. The show made a swift turn back into the extravagant after a short jaunt through more wearable tweed and wool outerwear. Dresses, paired with ornate gold and bejeweled crowns, were breathtakingly regal. A black lace dress, falling mid-calf, featured whimsical bell sleeves and floral appliques. The finale featured a cardinal red lace dress paired with red-jeweled ballet flats.
As you wait each season for the next collection from Dan and Dean Caten for DSquared, you know you are guaranteed a collection that is not only inventive and beautiful, but also fun and full of color. For Fall/Winter 2013, the famed brothers did not let us down. Trending this season are inspirations plucked straight from the forties and DSquared traveled back in time as well, only this time they’ve added a flair of jazz. The double-breasted gray suit was tailored to perfection in true Caten fashion and paired with a shocking yellow coat, red silk tie and hunter green felt bowler hat. We also saw a robin’s egg blue high-waist skirt suit paired with flirty, pink slouchy leather gloves. High heels were oddly paired with socks, which took the suits sophistication down a notch, but moving on to eveningwear DSquared rightfully earned our undivided attention back. Trains fell behind models like sparkling streams of fabric on the runway and crystal embellishments were seen on almost every piece of the eveningwear collection. Seen in pewter and champagne satin, and a gorgeous black bustier dress in black lace that was paired with a masculine black coat and bowler hat, the eveningwear portion of the line exuded pure sexuality.
The Etro Fall/Winter 2013 show in Milan this season was in a word, psychedelic. Funky prints buzzed in an electric palette of red, orange, yellow and navy. Designer Veronica Etro was inspired by the digital era and the passion for creating looks that were defensive and protective. Not to mistake protective for modesty, the models were covered with high-collared blouses and jackets, while trousers hit at the ankle and layers were plentiful. Save for a more delicate piece in the collection, a remarkable, sparkling, black and yellow print gown with side cutouts. Black geometric designs co-mingle with more intricate, spacey prints on layered trouser, blouse and jacket ensembles that presented severe, uneven layers. Fabrics were also mix and matched. A leather biker jacket was ingeniously paired with a bright orange mohair sweater, and wool, knit and leather were also used together showing that the designer truly utilized all the fall fabrics for the season ahead.
Gianfranco Ferre debuted a strong fall/winter 2013 collection at the Palazzo della Permanente in Milan this season. Designers Federico Piaggi and Stefano Citron used Asian influences as well conceptual and sharp, architectural design in the houses’ pieces. Opening the show was a white satin jacket and trouser combination with large lapels and a top peeking from beneath that appeared to be more of a suggested addition, leaving us to wonder how a woman would wear that without having an unfortunate fashion incident. The sweeping scarf look was repeated, this time on a midnight blue satin top, paired with a front-slit black skirt. However, this time the look appeared more sensible, wearable. The accessories did did give us a preview of what was to come with the obi-styled belts, which dramatically grew in size, with their loops drastic, almost obtrusive as we reached the end of the show in a blush halter gown. The highlight of the show, wasn’t confined to one piece, but instead was the over-all female-power energy that was felt throughout. Though feminine by the choice of fabric and girlish cinched-waists, the strength was shown through the edgy cuts and lines that each piece presented.
The Gucci fall/winter 2013 collection presentation by Frida Giannini felt more like a hot night spent in a Milan nightclub than a traditional fashion show. Loose tailoring and masculine silhouettes opened the show with large, rounded shoulders and high necklines. The show carried a dominatrix vibe throughout the entire collection; leather was the fabric of choice on tall boots, a knee-length skirt, and python turtlenecks that were worn more like body armor or a second skin than wearable tops. Giannini shined through her eveningwear collection that featured, in a palette of cool blues and greens, satin jumpsuits and hourglass shaped dresses. The pieces featured lace mesh bodices and embellishments such as feathers and sequins, dressing up the dark, seductive looks.
The John Richmond Fall/Winter 2013 collection, presented in Milan this season, was sensible with an air of romance. Showing great wear ability, the line was a cool palette of grey, white, black and blue with sweet prints inspired by fauna and underwater reefs. The show opened with a classic winter piece, a long grey jacket with fur adorned shoulders and grey trousers, accented by a single white line down each leg. A long black trench with thin black leather panels was paired with black boots, on a model carrying an oversized leather bag and it felt more matrix than muliebrity. A true gem was the cropped, black, nip waist blazer with satin sleeves that was worn without anything underneath except for an elaborate necklace. Paired with a reef print trouser it was sexy and possessed an edge. The eveningwear presentation was daring, with models baring much more skin than a traditional eveningwear collection. With dresses hitting high on the upper thigh, the prints were intricate and the dresses shown featured long sleeves or were paired with complimenting furs. The dresses featured metallic embroidery and the white mini was embellished with platinum fringe that lent beautiful movement.
Roberto Cavalli of Just Cavalli wanted his Fall/Winter 2013 line to be overtly wearable. Inspired by the urban woman, he wanted to create easy designs and cuts that any young and vibrant woman would want to wear. With the infusion of color, prints and easy to wear fabrics Cavalli hit his mark. The show opened with a tunic dress, printed with a medieval stain glass, the same print appeared on the matching white, fur-lined parka. A bright orange tiger print sweater, and an ensemble that incorporated a tiger printed backpack on a pleated-skirt clad model gave the familiar notion of back to school, injecting a youthful vibrancy in the collection. Oriental print jumpsuits and tight trousers paired with open toe Cavalli boots were a strong addition to the collection, in their powerful fiery red palette. The Cavalli girl seemed to grow up by the finale, as the house presented a sensual red and black crystal, drop-waist, flapper style dress.
Band of Outsiders
The Band of Outsiders 2013 Fall/Winter show in New York City was presented as an eclectic mix of bohemian texture, 80's punk and 1940’s silhouettes. Famous singer Billie Holiday, and the game system Atari, were the inspirations behind designer Scott Sternberg's latest creations. The pixelated digital graphic designs made an appearance on a boxy, over-sized, gray and navy cardigan paired with sheer black nylons and patent leather tasseled loafers. An Asteroid game print also appeared on a sleeker, more feminine high-waist dress that accentuated the female curves. While the printed pieces, paired with Manolo zipper-front ankle boots, bordered on tomboy-femininity, an air of masculinity played a role in the 40's inspired garments. Pinstriped shirt-dresses, large wool trenches and boxy-shouldered tops, not to mention the knit turbans, evoked a sense of a dark film noir scene. It was a perfectly orchestrated mash-up of decades past with a flair of genius.
Christian Siriano struck a romantic chord with his New York Fall/Winter 2013 presentation. A sea of opulent gold and midnight black gowns, rich in velvets, sheers and tulle took to the runway in the latest line from the television fashion star. A metallic gold, mermaid style, floor-length gown was classically beautiful and the line spoke to the young sophisticated female. The collection, inspired by “the golden age of Russian opera”, also featured three 50's-esque silhouettes, one with an elaborate gold detailed décolletage, the second, a sheer, glittering bustier with gold sparkle cascading down a black netted ballerina skirt and lastly, an all-gold, provocative long sleeve with a completely sheer top, save for the perfectly placed gold embellishments. The models shoes, a specialty from the Siriano house, were encrusted with brooches and jewels, complimenting the dresses gracefully. The breathtaking showstopper was the transparent, luxurious, floor-length gown bedecked in the same gold embellishments used throughout the collection. This time, paired with an ornate, gold handkerchief worn atop the models head, heightening the emphasis on the Russian theme of the overall show.
Falguni & Shane Peacock
The Falguni and Shane Peacock Fall/Winter 2013 collection debut in New York was glam meets rock'n'roll, wrapped up in a couture satin bow. We saw a floor length, metallic printed dress in a palette of black, teal and muted pastels that screamed “Wild Child”, which just so happened to be the title for this Fall collection. Other floor length gowns included a champagne and silver sparkling piece, accented with feathers, that was ethereal and feminine, it was paired with a dominatrix styled black leather choker collar and black ankle boots to give it its edge. A black sheer mesh and corseted mermaid style gown featured a black metal breastplate and incorporated indigo, orange and pale green into the Asian inspired print. Knee length dresses were featured in a darker palette including a black mesh and red-feather body-con dress with a deep V-neck in the mesh, evoking feminine sensuality. Models wore black, cat-lined eyes and black nails to further prove that they are in fact wild women on the prowl. Meow!
Oscar De La Renta
A girl can never go wrong with an Oscar De La Renta gown. Romantic and timeless, his pieces simply emanate beauty. For the houses' Fall/Winter 2013 debut, De La Renta, along with designer John Galliano, opened with designs that were more Avant-garde than traditional. Opening the show were a collection of coats and capes, including a striking teal, black belted coat, paired with a felt hat and slouchy gloves that added an air of sophistication. A charcoal cashmere, hooded cape paired with a black leather trouser is perfect for the chill of autumn air, and was paired with violet slouchy gloves that added a touch of color. The highlight of every De La Renta show are the gowns. Trickling down the runway was a sparkling stream of floor length gowns in an array of colors and fabrics. Neon green velvet, cherry red satin, and a glittering, sheer, champagne-feathered creation displayed lux femininity and charm. Closing the show were two satin ball gowns, in neon pink and indigo, hand embroidered in regal gold bullion displaying the pairings talent for true opulence in design.
David and Phillipe Blond, the masterminds behind The Blonds put on quite a spectacle at Milk Studios in New York for their 2013 Fall/Winter debut this season. Known for dressing the eclectic, stars such as Lady GaGa for example, The Blonds do weird very well. This line, dubbed “Slasher Sashay” was to be seen as killer-chic. Inspired by horror films such as Psycho and The Shining, they took their inspiration very literally through their choice of prints and fabrics utilized throughout the collection. Sporting voluminous blonde wigs, models eyes were played up in red. Over the top, in a good way, came the all-black, Birds inspired, leather jumpsuit, with large black feather embellishments paired with knee-high black boots. The jewel-encrusted rope mini dress with noose-inspired neck brace made us shiver, as did the ode to the Psycho shower scene; seen in both a clear, PVC short trench splattered in a gradient of red and a printed, black and white mini paired with a bright red faux fur. Finally, a look that cannot go unmentioned was the crème mini dress and fur ensemble featuring a print of Jack Nicholson. Puts a completely new spin on fashion that “Shines”, no?
The Vera Wang Fall/Winter 2013 show in New York was romantic and grown-up. Opening with a gloomy palette of charcoal and black, we saw a sleeveless cocoon-styled coat worn with low hanging armholes that enveloped the model, her lips stained a deep wine and her hair loosely tied back off her shoulders. Also in black was a jeweled, bishop-sleeved t-shirt dress over jacquard pants, highlighting that Wang is all about dramatic silhouettes this season. The show happily brightened with its appearance of Asian-inspired, rose prints in a sunny citrus orange and magenta. The designs were more feminine with dresses, origami style skirts and peplum tops dominating. Bandeaus appeared under sheer tops and deep V-neck dresses, employing a layering technique that never felt too heavy. The finale of the show felt very much like classic Vera Wang, a classic that we have come to love.
Deitrich Emter was all about luxury at the Fall/Winter 2013 presentation of his new line. Shown in a complementing palette of silver, black and electric orange fur was used as hoods, collars and vests on sophisticated pieces that accentuated the female figure while remaining professional. Cropped, iridescent trousers with a faint snakeskin print were paired with a fitted white silk blouse, one of the fur collars wrapped around the models neck in contrasting black alluding to winter wear. A gorgeous orange tailored suit and a charcoal dress with gold button embellishments on the shoulders, also topped with a fur collar and leather gloves, would make perfect options for the office. Lastly, a silvery grey fur vest was paired with bright yellow-cropped trousers, adding vibrancy to the collection. Models wore their hair pinned back, with curls cascading down, and lips were a bright coral.
The Dimitri Fall 2013 ready-to-wear collection presentation in Berlin was full of energy, color and prints that excited the senses. Inspired by “ice princesses from Siberia” and glaciers, the palette was a cool mix of cobalt, navy white, and shimmering silver. Models wore their hair in buns on the front of their dainty heads, and makeup was neutral. Wild, futuristic prints were seen on leggings paired with fitted sweaters and oversized leather jackets or faux fur coats. A fun, flirty silver raffia dress was flapper inspired and paired with charcoal nylons and bright blue strappy heels. Raffia was seen on skirts as well, including a cobalt blue maxi skirt over the printed leggings. It was paired with a turtleneck and navy blue leather biker jacket evoking a feel that was more warrior princess and less delicate female. The feminine flair was saved for the eveningwear collection where we saw a teal, sheer chiffon, belted gown that we could see sitting beautiful upon a throne.
Velvet was a popular trend seen in shows in Berlin this season, and the Holy Ghost Fall/Winter 2013 runway was no exception. Utilizing the fabric through their collection, it was also brought through in the accessories. We saw a maroon velvet bowler hat and exquisite velvet ankle boots that are sure to be a popular trend worldwide this fall. The show opened strong with a leather jacket draped over the shoulders of a tuxedo-top and bow tie clad model. Her black trousers were embellished with gold zippers, a recurring detail used throughout the line. They were also used on a pair of baggy grey trousers paired with a boyfriend style grey sweater. Comfort and wear ability came through with the entire daywear portion, making it an accessible collection for any woman who likes a no fuss wardrobe that is still stylish and trendy. A black pantsuit, as well as a wool, grey shift dress work well for the professional woman with lines that are still soft and feminine. The interesting show closers were a red velvet body suit paired with black nylons and a red velvet button-down coat and a blue sheer evening gown with a brightly colored floral print, and blue felt hat. The Holy Ghost house definitely shined in their daywear, however, the collection, as a whole was innovative and attention grabbing.
Iranian designer Leyla Piedayesh presented the Lala Berlin collection for Fall/Winter 2013 in the collections namesake city this season. Wanting to create a fresh, cool collection that you could “mix as you like”, her inspiration was drawn from punk rock singer/songwriter Patty Smith and the seventies rock music scene. The colors and patterns all possessed a seventies vibe. A pair of bright orange, knee-high boots stretched upwards towards a colorful, printed micro-mini skirt and oversized crème turtleneck sweater. A pale pink maxi sweater with full-length zipper was paired with thigh high pink and white riding boots and a black hat. Not wanting to exclude their signature caftans, Piedayesh incorporated a southwest print onto a caftan and matching blouse and trouser ensemble. Another print seen was the starry sky print used on a sheer evening gown and a skirt that was paired with a geometric print, chunky knit sweater. The ease of mixing and matching the pieces to create different looks was apparent and we definitely felt the rock and roll influence from start to finish.
Lena Hoscheck took us on a romantic walk through a Spanish garden during the presentation of her Fall/Winter 2013 line. Her ready-to-wear daywear collection included an elaborate mix of dresses, pencil skirts, blouses and trousers in a variety of prints. Models wore their hair slicked-back, in long ponytails, and for the eveningwear collection, it was Spanish style up do’s with braids twisted and piled high. Lips were bright red, eyes lined with black liner. The look was sensual and true to the Spanish culture. A green satin blouse with puff sleeves, was paired with tight floral trousers and a red and white, traditional, floral print, puff sleeve blouse was paired with shredded red pants and knee high, red leather tie up boots. Both looks were worn with a jacket tied around the waist, evoking an early nineties vibe. A natural combination of brown and green was seen on a floral skirt suit, paired with ripped panty hose and chunky black boots. It was an, almost out of place, masculine look for the collection that contrasted against the delicate lace skirt and long, lace, cap-sleeve evening gown that closed the show. Overall, it was a beautiful journey through traditional Spain.
There is a first time for everything and Leandro Cano, winner of Stella McCartney’s Designer of Tomorrow, had his first experience debuting a runway show in Berlin for the Fall/Winter 2013 season. Cano came out of the gate strong with silhouettes that were creative, strong, and as he hopes to be, one of a kind. The palette was a dreamy mix of crème, white and garnet as models walked down a runway hazy in fog. The show first opened with its more subdued creations, a white dress with embellished shoulders, followed by an all-white jumpsuit embellished as well, this time with appliques affixed at the arm and shoulder as well as scrolling down the hip. The show was titled “Animas” and was named for a vision of the designers, in which he imagined cosmic creatures wearing avant-garde creations. As the show progressed, we saw the creations in which he was alluding to, including garnet and white jumpsuits featuring outlandish padding that created a wavy silhouette. One of the most talked about pieces was an open weave, belted, knit top, with an exaggerated bulbous hood, paired with a rust-hued pencil skirt. Truly a collection to remember, we are excited to see what he will bring to the table next season.
In his final collection for Rena Lange, designer Carsten Feilitz presented a classic line for the minimalist in the houses’ Fall/Winter 2013 presentation in Berlin. Inspired by cubist artists such as Stella, Hartung and Mondrian the line featured sharp lines and abstract geometric patterns. A solid palette of contrasting black and white, splashes of tangerine and tan were welcome additions. A tangerine and black fitted sweater, paired with elegantly tailored black trousers opened the show. Clean and feminine, the silhouettes were inspired. Body conscious, knee-length dresses in color block leather or geometric pattered knit were paired with thigh high or ankle-boots, while floor length evening gowns featuring a softer design and crystal embellishments, or vertical slits, were worn with strappy heels. The collection was a beautiful, clean finish for Feilitz.
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