Fall 2014 Fashion Week Coverage
Blumarine’s Fall 2014 collection was elegant and feminine with inspiration from Asian culture. Texture played an important role in the collection with metallic accents and fabrics placed with sleek silks. Shoulder lines were boxed or sloping, but always strong, while cuts took cues from the kimono and turned them mini. Extravagant metallic flower patterns were the standout feature for the bulk of the collection. The show-stopper, however, was the long-sleeved and pleated gold sparkling gown with a middle slit from the neck to the hip line. The selective skin showing pushed the piece into sensual while steering clear of risqué.
Emilio Pucci’s Fall 2014 collection was all about sleek fits, fur accents and mixed patterns. The inspiration seems to be all over the board, but takes some strong cues from Native American culture in some of the furs and prints. Most of the pieces kept skin showing strong but balanced. Long skirts and pants were paired with almost belly-button level V-cuts. Turtleneck tops were matched with minis a bit too short to be winter-weather practical. A few metallic and leather accents gave a nod to the seasonal trends without letting them outshine the collection.
Fendi’s Fall 2014 collection was stylish and eccentric. Fur burst from seams while middle slits came high enough to reveal upper thigh. Quilt style patterns and paint splattered fabrics gave a little DIY feel to the collection. Asymmetrical mesh accents and multi-textured pieces helped give an edgy vibe while white floral accents placed on the shoulder referenced the softer side of nature. The furs dominated the show and were used even in unexpected places. A single-shoulder Mohawk style fur accent, fur asymmetrically styled over the shoulder and a cuff with fur escaping from the inside were all interesting takes to add to the collection. Overall, this collection is perfect for the fashionista with a rocker vibe.
Gucci’s Fall 2014 collection was full of colored fur and leather. Much brighter than most of the cold-season collections, the style pulled a bit from a 1960s secretary look. Expertly tailored with lots of leather, this show pulls you back in time. Balancing feminine qualities, the boxy leather jackets were shown in girly pinks with distinctly elegant details. Most of the looks were multipurpose and could be worn to work or for a chic daytime date. One standout piece was a sleek and exquisite yellow leather dress with lines that meet mid-chest. The small details are what make this collection strong and modern despite almost exclusively vintage inspiration.
Missoni’s Fall 2014 collection made a statement in knits. Most of the collection consisted of knits in a variety of textures, colors and patterns. The color palette was broad but featured a lot of burnt oranges, mustard yellows and vibrant blues. Trousers and collars took cues from menswear, but the cuts were undoubtedly feminine. While the looks were well-tailored, they were rarely revealing and have enough substance to lend a little warmth. The Missoni woman this fall is sophisticated and maybe even a bit conservative, but she is on-trend and doesn’t let a classic instinct keep her from a modern style.
Roberto Cavalli’s Fall 2014 collection is full of everything chic and sophisticated. Elaborate patterns and luxurious furs were centerpieces in many of looks, which ranged from menswear-inspired trousers to sheer lingerie-style dresses. Whether the looks were mostly covered or showing skin, the feeling stayed consistently sensual and expensive. The collection featured many colors but rarely together—each look seemed to stick to one hue. A few animal prints and metallic accents were used to complete the collection that seemed to show a day in the life of a femme fatale. From business to seduction, the Cavalli woman is polished, sleek and sexy.
Versace’s Fall 2014 collection was filled with texture, asymmetrical lines and military buttons. The styles were broad-ranged but all glamorous. There were short, but rather elegant dresses with shoulder cutouts, bright colored fur jackets matched with multi-textured pants in the same color and suits with risqué ultra-low V necks. Asymmetrical lines ran through dresses and accentuated a lean but curvy silhouette. The models were made up in simple but glamorous makeup with sleek, blunt-cut hair à la Donatella herself. Fringes lent a little movement to the collection, while bulky metallic jewelry gave a stronger edge to the otherwise elegant pieces.
In his third season with Balenciaga, Alexander Wang put on a show that was full of sportswear nuance and fall ready fabrics. Wang implemented zippers and metallic stripes onto knitted separates that featured rounded shoulders and smooth lines. The all-American pieces that were presented on the Parisian catwalk showed technical embellishments in the form of bonded latex and paneled beaver fur. Daywear was a palette of blues, yellow and grey while eveningwear was much darker, and more elegant. Duchess satin wrap tops with wool shrugs masqueraded as evening sweaters and did so beautifully. The evening palette shined richly in shades of charcoal, silver and wine, accented with glass beads and rhinestones.
If ever there was a time to adapt your personal style to that of R&B star Rihanna, this would be the collection you would want to obtain. Balmain presented a current, fashion-forward offering of edgy leather separates dressed in gold chains and attitude. In a palette of orange, olive and black, Balmain designer Oliver Rousteing stated that this collection is “all about freedom and confidence.” The shoulders of the pieces, heavily embellished in metal trimmings, were strong and rounded while the use of silk trousers and leather peplum belts softened the overall line a bit, stating that a strong modern woman can be proud of her softer side.
Quite possibly the most talked about show in Paris for fall 2014 was Karl Lagerfeld’s transformation of the Grand Palais for Chanel. Creating a faux supermarket complete with produce, a liquor department and Chanel branded, well, everything, the hottest items were the candy-colored tweed separates and oversized matching bags. The hourglass silhouettes were feminine and youthful and the fabrics were predominantly tweed and wool, perfect for a Parisian winter. The classic Chanel sneaker was the footwear of choice, along with the knee high, lace up version, both lending the looks a casual, comfortable spin for when you’re out doing your shopping.
Raf Simons of Dior dressed his models in sophisticated silhouettes for fall. The suits were slim and the frocks were feminine, offering volume, texture and a bold palette. Designed in on-trend hues, such as cobalt, cotton candy pink and yellow, styles ranged from work-ready suits to slip dresses that moved beautifully. The multi-layered, quilted dresses stole the show. The body-hugging styles were accented with printed heels, gloves and sparkling neck jewels. Simons beautifully executed his vision of the executive woman, unencumbered by the constraints of fashion.
Nicolas Ghesquière brought a mod flair to fall for his first collection at Louis Vuitton. The show opened strong with a leather snap-button coat in black that featured a caramel collar over a white turtle necked dress and knee-high boots. The A-line cut was a popular trend throughout the show, and was also seen on coats and tweed skirts. Day looks included belted, glossy leather pants with printed vests and white long sleeves with sweet necklines. Ghesquière’s traditional trouser also appeared, this time in a high-waisted style, paired with a tucked in khaki jacket. “I didn’t want to do a theme or a story,” Ghesquière explained backstage. “I tried to express easiness.” And it was a refreshing easiness that the modern woman could appreciate.
Miu Miu’s Miuccia Prada followed suit with the sporty vibe for her fall collection presentation. In a show that felt youthful yet strong, Prada presented bright separates in cushy, quilted fabrics. Long coats were created from plastic and embellished with oversized metal fasteners, assuring protection against harsh weather. Quilted shirtdresses and short-skirts were more ski-lodge than ski lift and were paired with the most fashionable rain boots a girl could ever dream of owning. Our favorite highlights included the candy colored palette, the shimmering chevron printed coat and, of course, those boots.
The Stella McCartney fall presentation was as a casual, sporty collection for the active woman. McCartney described the line to be a perfect fit for the woman who possesses a “sophisticated do-it-yourself” attitude. Sweater and t-shirt dresses dominated in jewel tones, while sporty double breasted suits looked as if they’d fit in at the office or a sports game. Zippers were used as decorative embellishments, adding a unique flair to the ensembles. As eveningwear began, the masculine tailoring was behind us and slinky mini dresses, comprised of silken cord, draped the models. The dresses were an elegant twist on the overall sporty vibe; however, in keeping with the casual theme of the show, they were worn with rubber-soled oxfords and fuss-free hairstyles.
Inspired by patterns in weather, Alexander Wang presented a collection of looks to dress us through the lightest of rain showers to snow fall in the city. All designs held a sporty aesthetic, from the long wool coats and shearling jackets to the trouser and sweater sets. To avoid winter drab, Wang incorporated pops of fuchsia, orange and cobalt on coatdresses, slouchy trousers and turtlenecks. Models accessorized with fanny packs and shorts that featured oversized pockets that Wang stated were for “carrying cigs, a cell phone and a lighter.” The Wang woman seeks a fashionable sporty vibe that is functional and comfortable.
Diane Von Furstenberg
Diane Von Furstenberg’s “Bohemian Wrapsody” collection highlighted, once again, her classic wrap dress. Armed with an “if it’s not broke, don’t fix it” attitude towards fashion, the designer continues to refresh us with eclectic prints, on-trend colors, and new items that compliment her tried and true style. Mix and match prints were the stars of the show, from clouds and moons, to rosebuds and geometric prints, and Von Furstenberg used a blend of fabrics as well. Feminine silhouettes in delicate silks and luxurious fur set the tone of the show, the wrap dresses styled appropriately for fall with bell sleeves and fur handbags. Overall, we saw classically beautiful styles for all women of all ages.
Jason Wu’s fall collection is pure elegance. Silk chiffon, wool and velvet were the fabrics of choice for a show that stated; skinny trousers have no place here and the waistline is the feature to accent this season. The show opened with a beautiful, black bustier with a hint of shimmer, paired with belted, wide legged crepe trousers. Silk dresses were seen in a palette ranging from light champagne to forest green, at various lengths, and silk trousers were paired with velvet embellished sheer tops in shades of eggplant and black. The show ended, as any romantic evening should, with women in panne velvet dresses adorned by what appeared to be a man’s overcoat to fend off the late evening chill.
Nicole Miller is all about fun and texture this season. Utilizing mixed prints and layering, Miller stated, “Independent women don’t need a business suit to feel strong.” Inspired by Japanese anime heroines, the line is an eclectic mix of youthful edge and casual toughness. The show opened with colorful, print heavy coats, skirts and tops made from neoprene and transformed into an all-black selection of leather separates and peacock feather embellished skirts. Fur handbags and suede ankle boots lent an added textural mix as accessories, and the hair and make-up styling was more elaborate than on most runways in New York this season.
If there was a show that was wrapped up and presented with a bow, it would be the fall collection presentation by Prabal Gurung. His collection was a beautiful mix of color with ingenious textural pairings. Cozy knitted sweaters were paired with skirts made of lightweight chiffon, satins were mixed with cotton and throughout the line, Gurung implemented unique folds and draping. On-trend highlights were the chunky scarves and turtlenecks, yet the feminine silhouettes were never lost. The winter ready ensembles, including the red evening gown complete with chiffon turtleneck, were paired with strappy heels for a sense of glamour.
Rag and Bone
Rag and Bone took us back to the 90’s with their fall collection presentation and collaboration with Coogi. A posh 90’s ski resort to be exact, full of thick wintery separates and “Cosby” inspired patterns. Masculine silhouettes presented in the way of oversized shoulders, baggy jackets and lumberjack plaids. It wasn’t all cozy knits and cargo trousers. Designers Marcus Wainwright and David Neville also provided some beautiful, feminine pieces such as a cropped satin crepe parka jacket in a matte black as well as slinkier color block dresses. And the baggy, knee-high boots in black and grey? A must have.
Rebecca Minkoff this season is sporty and sophisticated. In a mix of neutral basics, Minkoff presented a boy-meets-girl style aesthetic. Wool coats were seen over traditional, relaxed evening trousers in a masculine silhouette that was presented in feminine colors such as crème, lavender and dusty pink. Printed silk dresses worn under long coats were designed in darker hues such as charcoal and cobalt. A fun addition was the gold lamé evening shirt and trouser ensemble that offered a spark of glamour. Minkoff caps off the casual looks with the on-trend beanie, and keeps the evening attire more sophisticated, pairing the looks with a leather clutch.
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